Weekend of April 28: Friday was really the start of the fun for me. I got up early and met Michael at his place at 5:15 and we made for Silva Channels with short boards. We were the first out and I got the first wave. It was as good as I have ever seen Silva’s – 3 to 5 and glassy, lining up outside and deep and you could make the sections; it looked like a video of a perfect mystical Indo wave. We got a bunch of waves before the crowd grew and saw friends/better surfers get deep barrels. Back at Michaels we traded up to the 12 footer guns and went out-the-back – 6 to 10 feet and perfect. After a few quick ones I watched Michael paddle into a big one; watching from the back I thought he was toast multiple times so it was completely unexpected when he popped out way down the line hooting. As he paddled back out the clone of his wave swung in and I caught it – stayed high and tried to make the section the way Michael did but as the wave formed up it looked doubtful so I peeled over the top after a nice run. On the way out Michael gave me 50:50 that I would have made the wave – bad odds for a wave that size. All that and got to work before 10:30.
The rest of the weekend surf adventure took place on Sunday morning when Ryan and I drove up north. Sitting in the parking lot at Uppers we saw Michael and Bobby paddle over and start shredding – Michael pulled into a close out barrel and Bobby pulled his usual radical moves. We joined the action and had a great time. Michael and Bobby witnessed me get something between a head dip and a full barrel on a nice right and after they left I scored a real left barrel. At the start of the session there were about 8 people out (including an exotic 6 foot tall model in a very skimpy bikini), but by the end it was just Ryan and I. Joni also reports getting some good surf all weekend at 3s in Waikiki.
Week of April 28: There was a nice south swell through most of the week. Never got as good as the previous south swell, but still plenty of fun waves. Both Joni and I scored some good waves. Surfed the regular spots. Was good to see the old regulars come out again. One guy that surfs Inbetweens all the time reported a good trip to the Mentawai Islands off Sumatra in Indo – he said even in the off season there is great surf there. Same guy is off to the Maldives this summer. Lucky devil.
This is the photo the surf-internet photographer took of me at Alii Beach on April 20 (I believe that is the right date). I'm kooking out on a small wave, but at least it is a nice clear photo. I actually managed to slide down this wave and get a decent ride.
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